Chants of shame on you greet guests at White House correspondents dinner shadowed by war in Gaza

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• Chants of ‘shame on you’ greet guests at…
• Chants of ‘shame on you’ greet guests at White House correspondents’ dinner shadowed by war in Gaza
• Love Letters
• Venetian-Style Shrimp in Tomato-White Wine Sauce
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• Three classics — spaghetti carbonara, Venetian shrimp, and chicken salmoriglio — that offer a tour of Italy

Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very well. Return the pasta to the pot and let cool for about 1 minute. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed and open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate. Use tongs rather than a fork to move the chicken pieces on the grill.

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A fork creates holes that allow juices to escape, resulting in drier meat. If you opt to use a mixture of bone-in chicken breasts and thighs or drumsticks (or leg quarters), keep in mind that the white meat is done at 160 degrees and the dark meat at 175 degrees, so the breasts may finish ahead of the legs. Browning shrimp on both sides can cause them to become rubbery and overdone in the finished dish. Instead, we sear only one side to develop flavor from caramelization, not to fully cook the shrimp. From the coast of Veneto, Italy, gamberi alla busara is a dish of whole shell-on prawns in a garlicky tomato sauce spiked with white wine.

Chants of ‘shame on you’ greet guests at…

Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the toasted bread crumbs. This brighter take on carbonara came from Pipero Roma in Rome, where the chef whisked the egg yolks until cooked and slightly foamy, creating a sauce that is much lighter in texture than most carbonara recipes. Mixing the yolks with water and cornstarch ensures the cheese won’t clump up when tossed with the pasta. Place the chicken skin side up on the cooler side of the grill.

Chants of ‘shame on you’ greet guests at White House correspondents’ dinner shadowed by war in Gaza

Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons of parsley and ¼ teaspoon each salt and black pepper; set aside. While the chicken rests, grill the lemon halves cut side down on the hot side of the grate until grill-marked, 2 to 3 minutes. Squeeze 2½ tablespoons juice from 1 or 2 of the grilled lemon halves, then stir the juice along with the parsley into the reserved garlic-lemon oil to make the salmoriglio. Serve the sauce and the remaining grilled lemon halves with the chicken.

Repeat with another 1 tablespoon oil and the remaining shrimp; set the shrimp aside. Extra virgin olive oil, lemon, garlic, and herbs constitute salmoriglio, a sauce/marinade from southern Italy (specifically, Calabria and Sicily). Grilling the lemons before juicing them mellows their sharpness and acidity, adding a subtle sweetness to the sauce. Our version is made with grated zest in the marinade; we then add the juice to finish the sauce just before serving. Add the shrimp and accumulated juices to the pan, along with the remaining 6 tablespoons parsley. Cook, stirring, until the shrimp are opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes.

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Venetian-Style Shrimp in Tomato-White Wine Sauce

Transfer the chicken skin side up to a platter and let rest for about 5 minutes. One of the few mentions came from Kelly O’Donnell, president of the correspondents’ association, who briefly noted some 100 journalists killed in Israel’s 6-month-old war against Hamas in Gaza. In an evening dedicated in large part to journalism, O’Donnell cited journalists who have been detained across the world, including Americans Evan Gershkovich in Russia and Austin Tice, who is believed to be held in Syria. Families of both men were in attendance as they have been at previous dinners. At Nonna boutique in Highland Park, former film and TV stylist and costume designer Olivia Lucia Perez curates elegant separates, accessories and dresses. (The shoes by Maryam Nassir Zadeh are worth the trip alone.) This emerald silk dress ($695) by New York label Zepherina has long adjustable bows, slits on each side and a high front neckline that’s just begging to be set off with some major bling.

Some recipes for gamberi alla busara include bread crumbs that thicken the sauce. We, however, prefer to toast some panko bread crumbs and sprinkle them on top to add crispiness and texture. The smokiness of the bacon will overwhelm the cleaner flavors of the egg-based sauce.

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Marinate at room temperature while preparing the grill. In a 10-inch skillet set over medium heat, cook the pancetta, stirring, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Measure out and reserve 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat; if needed, supplement with olive oil. Pour the pecorino-egg mixture over the pasta and toss with tongs until well combined, then toss in pepper. Let stand, tossing the pasta two or three times, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes.

Three classics — spaghetti carbonara, Venetian shrimp, and chicken salmoriglio — that offer a tour of Italy

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is slightly thickened, 6 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, whisk 1¾ cups water, the egg yolks, and the cornstarch until smooth. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and is airy and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes; use a silicone spatula to occasionally get into the corners of the pan. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of oil until it shimmers. Add the panko and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes.

From the bustling streets of Rome to the canals of Venice to the sun-drenched coasts of Sicily and Calabria, these dishes bring the flavors of Italy to your kitchen. For our spaghetti carbonara, we learned to lighten up the Roman classic by using whisked egg yolks to create an airy foam that melds with pecorino Romano cheese to create a creamy sauce. Next, our quick-yet-elegant skillet dish captures the essence of the Veneto region with succulent shrimp and a garlicky tomato sauce, finished with a sprinkling of toasted bread crumbs. Finally, we dress chicken in bright Mediterranean flavors with an herby, citrusy sauce made from lemons caramelized on the grill.

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